South Island
(The Mainland)
Interislander, Wellington
The perfect start to my South Island adventure. Soft Easterly breeze of 8kmh, a mostly sunny sky, with an unusually flat sea. In past week, winds over 60kmh. I arrived at the crack of dawn, an hour before last boarding call. Somehow I found myself last van in a massive queue of haulers, campers and the national favourite, Ford Rangers.
The sounds, Marlborough
One of New Zealand's top trips, neatly tacked onto the ferry crossing on the Cook Strait from Wellington to Picton, being the cruise through the sunken valleys of the Marlborough Sounds. 1.5 hours exiting Wellington harbour, 1 hour or more in the Strait and 1 hour or more slowly cruising underneath towering hills which line both sides of the Sounds. Top Tip...Best view, and there's many is the Top Deck or Rooftop to embrace this stunning magic.
Picton
Picture Postcard Picton....The first port of call, at the head of the Sounds. Love this place. So much so, I spent 3 active days here with Pictons Top Hosts, Bex and Gaz. They offered Indoor Golf at their Picton Ranch, a secret mission into Spy Valley, and truly there is a Spy communication site here, a variety of poshy vineyard settings, a cafe with a full-blown plane in the front yard and every boys dream, Captain Tugboat on a fire engine red Ports of Marlborough Tug. Photos never lie.
Queen Charlotte
There's a fairly hefty but doable trek along the length of the Queen Charlotte Sounds whereby watertaxis take both Walkers and mountainbikers to the head of the Peninsula. Then you're on your own. Bring tents, food and water. See you back in Picton after 3 or more days. 2 to 3 for bikes. More for Walkers. You can simply do daytrips too.
Blenheim
Home to the countries Spy Agency, gizzillions ofbarrels of fine Marlborough Plonk, alongside some very fine Quaffing establishments. Farrington even had a music studio in the bowels of the building to hammer out your next musical classic. You'll see a few folk zig zagging the roads on hired bikes as they wobble from vineyard to vineyard. Plus don't ignore the fabulous Peter Jackson offering showcasing his famous collection of WW1 Biplanes and other Weta Workshop models and mannequins. Top Tip...SLip, SLop, Slap as this is arguably NZs highest sunshine belt.
Wairau Lagoons and Bar
Artifacts have been carbon dated to year 1300. This is genuinely agreed as the landing spot where the Maori ancestors first arrived in NZ. It's significant, but in typical Kiwi manner, not alot of song and dance is made about this. The acknowledgements at Wairau Bar are more "Softly Softly". Top Tip...great 1 hour walk each way out to see the 1928 hulk of the SS Waverley lying broadside in the mud at Wairau Lagoons. The 1864 hulk, the SS Kennedy, deliberately sunk, sits awkwardly at the Wairau Bar.
Seddon, Whites Road Tour
Seddon is infamous for enduring the punishing earthquake of 6.5 Richter scale in 2013. This tiny town was hit from the very centre of the Cook Strait, 20kms away.
Famous for the Whites Road Tour through the folded landscape of Yellands Estate Vineyard. An 8km jolly old trek up and down undulating lime coloured roadway, passing hundreds of acres of grapes, some with sheep grazing under the vines. A first. Top Tip, drive in behind the Seddon town and drive 8km alongside the Awatere River to a most impressive vineyard, open to the public. Don't steal the grapes, however.
Awatere River road-rail
A unique engineering idea whereby trains travel directly above the underslung State Highway road bridge. A double bridge infact. It was this way for years, before SH1 was widened for faster traffic next door. However the bridge is now used as a cycling and for foot traffic with the rail line still operating above. Managed to view a passing lengthy train. Missed the opportunity to view from underneath as it "clikety clicked" above. Next time.
Lake Grassmere
Using a low sea level lake system, sea salt is harvested and Solar-Dried from vast lake beds. Essentially removed from the Pink Purple baths, piled high, then sorted and bagged for release into various markets. The Dominion Brand is an old Kiwi icon, now Asian owned. A firm favourite with Friday Fush n Chups. Known for the Pink and purple hues in the lake beds. Sadly, not today. Although a passing yesteryear tourist train passing one salt pile made up for the lack of salt bath colour. Salt had evaporated in these lakes since 1940.
Molesworth Station Gravel epic
On future list, the epic gravel trek from outside Seddon across NZs largest farmyard of 1800 square kilometers to the hotpools at Hanmer. 200 kilometres of dusty road through am ice aged carved valley with Hikers, mountain bikers and 4WD vehicles. Even mums cars are viewed here. 3 to 5 days of adventure. The road in on Awatere Valley Road starts on tarmac, but eventually gives way to gravel. Then a bumpy 160kms of bone jarring fun. Anyone fancy a tandem mountain bike. I'm in. Top Tip...camp along the way. No hurry. Bikers have achieved this in 24 hours and less. I'm a 5 dayer I reckon.
Marfells Beach
Directly behind and south of Lake Grassmere, the Salt Lake, and a couple of Bays around from the lighthouse of Cape Campbell sits a delightful easy facing camp and beach. Popular with cray potters and beach mountain bikers. If you get past the lighthouse, the next bay is Ward Beach where wind and ocean sculptures boulders reside.
Cape Campbell lighthouse
Arguably the most easterly point on the South Island sits a lighthouse dressed in the colour's of a zebra crossing. You'll find alot of sleeping seals, so be aware whilst walking or biking. They don't attack unless you block access too the sea. Otherwise, no drama. Try biking from Marfells as the hike is sizeable for the non hikers or strollers. You will need to push thro7gh 100 metres of pea stone at the halfway mark. You've been warned.
Ward beach
Similar to the Moeraki Boulders south of Oamaru, these somewhat smaller Bend it Like Beckham stone footballs were formed 65 million years ago, in the same way of the Oamaru cousins, in mudstone. Sadly since I was last here, the numerous round footballs are degrading and many have broken apart with the relentless battering of the Pacific Ocean. Ward Beach is also a fine example of the uplift of the Kaikoura Quake of 2016. Look out for the acres of white rock which scissored upwards along the waterline. Most dramatic examples here.
TheStore@Kekerengu
My halfway teahouse cafe between Kaikoura and Blenheim. If the suns out, a perfect beachside coffee stop in The Stores, garden setting.
Nins Bin
Left my run late to stop for an early dinner, as the Nins Bin crew had fled by the time I pulled in. An iconic Kai stop and busy as in summer. Just after viewing the seal rookery at Ohau Point, it's a nice treat before heading to Kaikoura...when it's open ofcourse.
Ohau Point, Kaikoura
A fully protected area. Even the seals know they're safe here from human harm. An immensely popular stop for drivers heading into Kaikoura. You'll discover the rookery of mum and baby seals in large numbers. Above the pools are up to 100 travellers peering down to see what the fuss is about. This area was devastated in the 2016 earthquakes, but extensive work by the Government repaired the truly massive road and rookery damage. Inturn the seals have returned in ever greater numbers. Top Tip...if you're heading to Kaikoura to see the wildlife, this stop is sometimes better than the foreshore of Kaikoura.
Kaikoura
Irish migrants arrived circa 1865 including the O'Donnell, Gallagher, Keenan, Smith .Kerr and more to settle in Kaikoura. The O'Donnell House, an Irish pub in the rural area, celebrates these early pioneers. You can too. Guinness anyone. Whales are the big ticket item in Kaikoura. Daily boat rides to the edge of the channel guarantee generally that you'll catch a glimpse of a tail at least. We tried the external prop engine with Kaikoura Air to sight disappearing whales from up high. The newest buzz in town is Star Gazing ad this town is fully recognized as a Dark Sky area. Apparently hard to gain this accreditation. If you want a good spot, head at dusk to the Kaikoura Lookout on the hill or down at coastal level in the grounds of Fyffe House. Top Tip....the selected photo is a private trotters race track circuit with uninterrupted views over the town and across to the Kaikoura Mountains. Love that.
Gore bay
A recognized Mainland surfers hideaway 8kms coastal side of Cheviot township, and the halfway point to Amberley in northern Christchurch. The surf barrels constantly roll in night and day. Top Tip...A decent backroad to Port Robinson and Hurunui Mouth, both worthy of exploring.
Cathedral gully, Domett
I decided to walk the kilometre hill to reach the impressive Cathedral Pipes. Suggest taking the camper. Steep. These pipes are a series of rock pillars, eroded by rainwater over the soft rock to form a cathedral look. The view from up high over the pillars and down to the bay is equally appealing. One critical dubbed these as World Famous in NZ.
Port Gibson? Port Robinson?
Although I discovered the actual lighthouse, maybe more Beacon, it's location name confused me. This small lighthouse has shone here since 1948. Could this be NZs dinkiest warning light for boaties, or more precisely, dinkiest lighthouse. Map shows Port Robinson. Another showed this as Port Gibson where the light sits. Top Tip...You'll need to scurry through a farmers paddock to discover it. Let's trust he's not farming Bulls.
Hurunui Mouth
I've concluded I've got a fixation for swing bridges. Recently cycled 5kms to see one on a river cycled trail. Allover NZ I stop to view and photograph. It's rather odd behavior. This one wonderfully creaked and bounced as tires hit the timber floor. Naturally I turned around for another round. Oh, it's a nice fishing enclave too at the end of the Hurunui River Mouth.
Domestic Rail station
I've always loved the Domett Rail station, currently a private residence on SH1, just south of Cheviot. Today I noticed the forsale sign. Not truly feasible, but dreamy all the same. Reminded me of the time I was keen to buy a church in Westmere, Auckland, or a slice of heaven overlooking a golf course on Karikari Peninsula. Pure fantasy, really.
Waipara
The Sleepers is a very unique property. Some would suggest, Quirky. A series of old school railway carriages dressed up as couples accommodation. It's also a campers rest spot. Reminded me of very similar propositions in Okaihau Northland and on the hill in Raglan, Waikato New owners at the Sleepers, Waipara. Campervans welcomed. I'll be back.
Iron ridge quarry, limestone hills, waipara river
A couple have radically transformed a massively sheer walled quarry pit into a piece of paradise complete with sculptures. Your entrance fee helps with the ongoing restoration whereby truck after truck imported soil to repair the starkness of an old rundown quarry pit. Take the very nice 10km drive past vineyards like The Bone Line and do bring a picnic. Free coffee on entrance too. Intime I do hope they add to the classic Kiwiana No.8 fencing wire attitude of the Kicking Gumboot. Very Fred Dagg perhaps.
Kaiapoi, North Christchurch
I was on a Mississippi Paddleboat, true story, feeling the breeze and stillness on this unique river cruise, then right next door the Speedway roared into life. Oddly opposite in atmosphere. The paddleboat chugs the turquoise Kaiapoi River most days. Lunch-Dinners available too, although I stuck with the cruise only. Short arms, long pockets perhaps. A different way to take in the most northern "red-zoned" suburb of Christchurch.
Mandeville Footbridge,
raven quay, Christchurch
Ballast blocks from a ship from Sydney makes up the actual oldest bridge in NZ in Kohukohu Northland from 1843. However it's simply a block bridge, not a hanging bridge. Over the Kaiapoi River sits a true hanging bridge from 1873 (admittedly 30 years on), but one of the very few original bridges from this period. Historic older bridges of the 1800s era have mainly been altered, reconstructed, even removed. This footbridge is the original. Ok, they had to shore up from underneath a dippy section due to the 2011 Christchurch earthquakes. But never altered the mainframe of the bridge, making this example one of NZs oldest in original form.
New Brighton hotpools and Pier
Two for the price of one. Soaking in the prized beachside hotpools whilst soaking in the view of the Brighton Pier
Marine Parade, Christchurch
They demolished the UK version of Brighton Pier, but even the 2011 Christchurch earthquake couldn't shift this Brighton icon. Although the town didn't fair we'll. There is a massive Redzone between Marine Parade and the CBD of Christchurch. Many Suburbs are now simply vacant land. No one can build here, fullstop. Marine Parade is trying to change that with new housing and redevelopment of the community, where the quake didn't hit. The divide between the red zoned areas has created a rundown vibe for this once vibrant beach township.
Godley Head, Lyttleton
One of Christchurchs great coastal adventures, including a meandering pathway, at times 500 metres above crashing surf. Expect to be on your feet for 1.5 hours each way, However the rewards are the never ending vista of beach Suburbs from Sumner to New Brighton. Plus the goal to reach the WW2 gun emplacements of Godley Head. It's exhilarating and quite dynamic as the pathway meander around numerous small bays. It's flat for 70%, with zig zag turns to soften the climb. Start the cliffside amble from Taylor's Mistake, over an enjoyable windy road from Sumner.
Stevenson steep, The Hills
I've heard of Rd., St., Ave., even Cres., but never a Steep until I walked up it. Yep, definitely 'Steep', which leads you up onto Lyttletons Catholic Cemetary equally on a Steep incline. Here are graves for WW1 soldiers, including Rifleman Hansen from 1919 and early Lyttleton ancestors of the 1800s. The views atop this Cemetary are rated, Spectacular. Sadly due to the 2011 massive earthquake of Christchurch and beyond, this cemetary was devastated. Many sites simply piles of broken brick and grave stones.
Corsair Bay, Lyttleton Harbour
You truly would be unlikely to casually discover NZs most hidden museum. Locals know, but few else I'm sensing. This site for near to 100 years was out of bounds to the Kiwi public, as it housed bang, bang, boom material from 1874 to 1960s. Then once shells were removed, in went the only surviving torpedo boat worldwide from the early 1900s, maybe late 1800s. This museum tucked behind a sizeable boating club, has a semi constructed Torpedo Boat, the HMS Defender. They open Sundays, apparently. Top Tip...always investigate behind sheds on waterfront as who knows what lurks down there. Fascinating.
Christchurch Lyttleton Tunnel
This was until Auckland did the Showoff tunnel under Waterview, the longest NZ tunnel. Nothing lasts forever. Still they are the Mainlands longest tunnel at 1.9kms. Showoff Auckland at 2.4km. The Toot Tunnel under Mt Victoria Wellington is at 600 metres. The unlined rock tunnel of Homer, Milford Sound sits at a steep incline of 1 kilometre. The most beautiful walking tunnel with an elevator shift is the Durie Hill tunnel in Wanganui at 1/4 kilometre in length. The very cold feeling Karangahake Cycle Tunnel on the Hauraki Rail Trail sits at 1.1km in length.
Woolston 'Stuff'
No not the remnants of the once media giant, Stuff, buy the quirkiest, likeable, even desirable home of truly good stuff.
Cashmere Castle
A cafe in a castle. Doesn't get much better than that @ the gorgeously named, Sign of the Takahe, whereby they publicly state where drinking to be merry is encouraged. Locals, no doubt. Top Tip...walk through the delightful garden to a neighbouring viewing platform with views out over the Adventure Park and 180 degrees to New Brighton Beach. Top views without a gondola. If gondolas are your thing, the Christchurch Gondola and Christchurch Adventure Park Gondola at 1.8km in length are both close by. The Adventure park is cheaper and longer. The recognized Gondola is pretty exciting with views behind over to Lyttleton. Hey, try walking back down the Bridal Trail. I did. Crikey, that's steep, but incredibly folk run up it.
Sporting Icons
I stumbled across an Icon of NZ Sport I still rate as NZs greatest Sport star, being Sir Richard Hadlee, at the home of NZ cricket, Hagley Park, maybe perhaps, Hadlee Park. Mt. Maunganui and Taranakis hillside terraces are smaller equals. On the sporting note, Sir Richard was a big as the Allblacks during the 80s, 90s. He roused a nation with his long run up and constant dismay by any worthwhile batsman. There were others ofcourse, Chatters, Crowe, Smith and Cairns and later gun stalwarts as in Vittori, McCullum,Bond etc. But can you go past The Man. No way.
Avon River, Riccarton
This 11km scenic meandering river is arguably both the principle highlight visually of central Christchurch and ironic lowlight, due to the rupturing that, occurred during the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes, along the length of this famed riverway. The irony being the meandering river was part of the creation of the Redzoned areas that necessitated the destruction and removal of thousands of homes along this concourse. Today, little can be built here, hence suburb after suburb of desolation. The beauty however still exists after remediation of banksides with continuation of the Punt service and river canoes. I'm an old kayaker, so the decision to enter the Avon by kayak was a given. Just knobbly knees showing on my riverway jaunt alongside a few Punts.
Rutherford den
Sir Ernest Rutherford, noted Pysicist of Nelson and Christchurch and honoured on the NZ $100 bank note, was famous for...Radioactive dating, Acoustic methods for detecting submarines and possibly one of the world's biggest, even greatest event, the Splitting of the Atom. Essentially this Kiwi, was the start of nuclear fision and inturn nuclear armaments. The Arts Centre in central CBD has the Rutherford Den, where a young Ernest studied his craft. Top Tip...free to view.
Nz longest road bridge
Hard to imagine this lengthy bridge outmuscles the famous Auckland Coathanger Bridge from the North Shore to the city centre of Auckland. But at 1.7km long it overshadows it's Auckland competition. Sadly you can't walk around the bridge, just simply as you travel 100kmh against oncoming traffic equally travelling towards you at 100kmh, for 1.7km, with just a fine line of white paint and no offshoot if you err. What could go wrong.
Nz sea Salmon, Rakaia
I felt Gore in Southland would have been a match with Rakaia interms of their towns icons. But with Rakaia hoisting a 12 metre sea run Salmon as the towns Icon, smashes the Gore competitor with a 9 metre Brown Trout. Apparently Rakaia Salmon is inline for a full replenishment from end of this year, into 2026.
Cherysey barn
Love these Old School style discoveries, whereby tens of thousands of books are housed in an old corrugated iron barn. I wondered where all the old throw outs went. Many here, I sense. It's messily tidy (isn't that an oxymoron, pretending he's well read). It hasn't changed alot over the years, and long may it never alter as it's a wonderful engaging environment to idle away some time. The crowds do stop off SH1 just before rural sector of Ashburton. This town only has a big book barn and a big book cafe. Nah, that'll never work.
Blue pub Brown pub, methven
Famous on a number of levels with the competing directly opposite Blue and Brown Pubs. Famous in NZ for celebrating the Topp Twins as residents of Methven, including their famed corner cafe at no.45. Sadly the singing country stars and entertainment icons have left town. However the cafe remains. I actually saw the Topps on a previous trip here, simply walking the town. Being of bashful Kiwi ways, I saw, raised my eyebrow, smiled, said nothing daft, till I turned the corner and jumped on the spot exclaiming the only Kiwi way, Yeah Nah OMG. Kiwis never create a fuss. Yeah, Gidday. Methven also the ski capital for Cantabrians during the winter months.
The Enchanted forest
If you are under 10, a manchild, even an adult kiddo (hey, stop pointing), then this forest, even art instalation, with its neatly trimmed paved pathway, between rows of tall timber, will excite. Its highly professional and definitely fun with thankfully undamaged fairy doorways and 'Pixie Poetry' across hundreds of trees. Lowdown for the Smaller ones, too. Walk, or cycle and cintinue on the canal style waterways as far as the Ashburton River if you choose.
Mt hutt
I was quietly relieved when I ventured to below Mt Hutt, the Cantabrians Skifield, that it was actually closed on the access road. A few tried and were forced back. Not alot of turning room once on the road up. The last time I attempted a big skifield trek in my old but steady campervan, it whizzed and showed signs of distress. A light dusting of snow sits atop Mt Hutt, but only on the crest. However, very cold at under 10 degrees celsius, even though the sun appeared.
Rakaia Gorge Walkway
A series of mountain river systems from Mt Hutt, Mt Williams, Mt Oakden, the Rolleston Range and more feed collectively into the braided river of the Rakaia. At the Gorge where it all happens, makes for a stunning vista if you drive in from the Methven Mt Hutt end. At the Gorge the torrent is released and broadens out to ten times it's inititial river width and forms an alluvial braided pathway for the river to rush through to the township of Rakaia. Here they have constructed NZs longest bridge to actually cross this ever widening river system. Top Tip...walk the Gorge pathway into the hills for a stunning look back over the gorges 2 bridges and fanlike delta. Interestingly if you could cross over these colosial mountain ranges, you would actually be directly on the West Coast at the equally stunning Hokitika Gorge.
Mt Hutt Forest
At the entrance and base of Mt Hutt, sits an array of easy to challenging bike trails. At the extreme end, sits the warming sounding Pinky's Trail. Essentially a poor turn or failed brakes and you're essentially, to quote a Kiwi term, Munted. Id suggest start with the introductionary level, the Swamp Donkey, then change up a gear and head for the Front Door, then homeward via the Back Door. (OK, I see you snickering away). You will need your own mountain or gravel bike.
Pudding hill
Possibly NZs most endearing name. So I just had to visit. Luckily, right next door too the bike park forest. Too the right you head skywards to the peak of Mt Hutt. To the left is the home of Pudding Hill. I discovered a number of forest walks, including a lengthy trek across to the mid range of Mt Hutt. Views back across the plains. Pudding Hill has two specific picnic spots, including the colorful flower inspired Awa Awa Rata Mclennans Bush
Allentown Pub
Home to the region Dinkiest Pub, the Brantworth Arms. Room for one standing 3 seater table, or added standing room for 6, discovered in the rural belt of Ashvegas. Ashburton regularly get the 'Michael' taken out of it, due to the perceived lack of nightlife. But don't be fooled, this town hums, including the recent hosting of the Chilli Championship, giving proof, there's life in thos old dog yet.
Ashvegas
Host to one of the finest English Gardens throughout NZ. Infact recognized worldwide as a garden of International Significance. The garden, Trott Garden is immaculate in its presentation and visually rewarding. Across town on the coastal side of SH1, is the most absorbing Aviation Museum, including ownership of the once famed Harrier Jumpjet. Plus intriguingly proprietor of space junk in the form of a Spaceball, courtesy of a Soviet Satellite Cosmos 482 which broke up over the South Island in 1972. For those who travel with a mountain bike, I'd fully recommend the 11km loop trail through the Ashburton forest adjacent to the Ashburton River. It's fully contoured and 'banked' over its entire length in noth directions. It's quite the trail. Grade 2 to 3. Top Tip...at the conclusion of the loop, you'll discover a trail of 4kms and 2.5kms through the bush. After completing this sector on my mountain bike, I discover, infact this was a motorcycle track. I thought it was strangely wide with deep wheel groves, but carried on regardless. Whoops, perhaps my Homer Simpson moment. Doh !.
Ealing
I have an affinity to the Ealing name, after my OE in my 20s whereby this towns name brought back fond memories. The NZ version is vastly different to that of Ealing UK. Locally its completely rural on the edge of Geraldine and Temuka. In 1942 it found itself as a defensive fort with Japanese submarines directly off the coast. A hastily engineered Roadblock was designed using a local pipe company to roll out, massive cylindrical concrete roadblocks to halt any attempt to land and fight in this rural community. These roadblocks were positioned on beaches and entrance to the Rangitata River which connected to the Pacific Ocean. Alongside these Roadblocks, which were rolled onto highways and rail connections, machine gun pillboxes were manned alongside these concrete items. This example in Ealing maybe the countries last visible roadblock which stayed here till the 1960s before being rolled into a river. Now excavated, it sits at an Ealing rest stop, enjoyed generally by graffiti taggers . Interesting history, however.
Contact
Phone: 022 601 4158
Email: dave_lewis@xtra.co.nz
